Wow--those are some real beauties! Nice that you're back in speaker building mode this time of year. If you don't like your neighbors, I think you could use those speakers/cabs when they're finished to get them to move out of the neighborhood!
Printable View
Wow--those are some real beauties! Nice that you're back in speaker building mode this time of year. If you don't like your neighbors, I think you could use those speakers/cabs when they're finished to get them to move out of the neighborhood!
You could add another chunk of plywood behind the baffle, say full width, and from the top down to a couple of inches below the woofers to reinforce that weak area between their cut-out, and then dado the baffle a half inch or so and mount them flush at the fronts.:)Quote:
Originally Posted by Panomaniac
Thanks Pano & Vott !!! Yes I wanted to maintain all the volume I could muster, 10 cubes per 416. Plus I like the look of the front mount better.With rear mount you would have seen the srews in that beautiful veneer I went through all the trouble of having applied, and paying for ! It wasn't cheap !Quote:
Originally Posted by Panomaniac
Volvo -WRT the baffle one of the window braces I have in them is just below the woofers which will make it very stiff.
The main reason I mount the woofers behind the baffle is for looks. If you like them better in the front, there you go!!
You could always something like these;Quote:
Originally Posted by Altec Best
The Insert Company (UK) Ltd - Steel Threaded Inserts.
A/B, the title of your thread is crossover design, but I can't remember if that was actually discussed. Did you ever come up with a design?
Not yet.I have to get the boxes together and do a lot of testing to come up with a good passive XO.A buddy (a fellow member) will be helping with that ! :smile2: I may also get an active at some point to play with.
You can get those inserts at Home Depot for cheap. I replaced the tee nuts on my model 19s and I've used them on a couple of other 416 applications. They work great and they don't pop out like tee nuts are apt to. The slots on a 416 or 604 and the like have enough clearance with a 3/16" bolt for home quality hole location. I have no idea why people always seem to suggest tee nuts for speaker cabs.
I used a dab of polyurethane adhesive PL-400 around each t-nut.They aren't going anywhere I assure you.Baltic Birch ply is very hard.I had to bang them in quite hard to set them.
Altec used staples through the tee nut perimeter holes to secure them on many models. I guess they thought that that would be enough.
I just think that if you're doing the full meal deal, as you seem to be, it's worth thinking about the small things for longevity.